Laura & James climbing mountains

On the 23rd January 2010 Laura completed her first mountain climb, the modest yet very popular Great Sugar Loaf in Co. Wicklow. At just over 500m it is an average size peak, I think it stands at the 494th highest mountain in Ireland, but to get to the top for her was a fantastic achievement. Only seven months prior to that it had also been my first mountain summit and I knew then I would be hooked forever. It had been a harder climb up than I had been expecting, I had been feeling cocky and thought I would fly up to the top. I even went out dressed in a pair of jeans such was my ignorance to the mountaineering lifestyle. I try to remind Laura that the first one is the hardest, that they do get easier...rightly too she did not believe me.

Some time had passed and I thought she no longer wanted to come hillwalking with me. We planned to go out a couple of times but with my training for Nepal I guess the opportunity passed us by. I think it is more a confidence issue than anything else, she lacks confidence in her own ability and tells herself that she cannot do it, but then on the 22nd May we summited her second Irish mountain. Prince William's Seat on the Wicklow / Dublin border. It stands at 555m (a fact I neglected to mention to Laura before we set off that morning).

The heat of the day did little to help our efforts, it was approximately 23 degrees and felt every bit of it, this heat always makes hillwalking more difficult. We took our time however, I knew she could make it and make it we did, a few "I hate you's" were thrown into the mix but we got there. As is often the case once you get to the top of the mountain and see the panorama of views surrounding you, forgetfulness takes over and the ordeal it took to get there in the first place is a distant memory.

The views in all directions around us were breathtaking, on one side you have the Wicklow mountains and on the other you are overlooking Dublin and the Irish sea. The picture below shows Laura at the Price William's Seat trig pillar at 555m, in the background over her left shoulder is the previously conquered Sugar Loaf at 501m. Pushing your limits is something that at the time can seem impossible but afterwards so gratifying. I know Laura will agree with me.

Onward and upwards to our next mountain top....

Mission Everest - Part 1 - Trekking in Nepal

It has been my ambition now for some time to one day summit the world's highest peak. It is very much so a long term goal of mine for a few reason.

First reason being financial, the money involved in such an undertaking is colossal (at least for me). It is estimated to cost somewhere between £40,000 and £60,000 for an attempt on Everest depending on who you choose to go with. This has fuelled debate that Everest has become a peak for the rich only. This aside I still want to go there, it will require minding the pennies but I am determined not to let that be a stumbling block on my mission to Everest.

Second reason being experience, or lack thereof. I want to do it the correct way, the proper way and that means training. I want to climb some smaller but just as challenging peaks before I try to climb Everest. I want to go to Everest with the best possible chance of success and I believe that comes with the right preparation. I have been trying to decide what my route to Everest will be, which peaks will I try first before signing up for an Everest expedition. The natural starting place for me was the trek, Yes I know it is not a peak but it certainly gave me an idea of what the country is like. I wanted to look back in 10, twenty years and say I did it the right way and for me that meant starting at Base Camp, looking up at the mountain and rubbing noses with it.

Like any mammoth undertaking such as this, each step is difficult but necessary to achieve your goals. At time while trekking in the Khumbu region I thought to myself how hard it was, how difficult I was finding it and how was I ever going to be able to climb Everest when I can barely get to Kala Patthar. But this is often the case, each stage is difficult at the time but by pushing it on, by going that little bit extra you set yourself up for success. Perhaps my favourite quote which comes from my hero Bear Grylls (incidentally he has summitted Everest) best emphasises my point.

"The difference between ordinary and extra-ordinary is so often just simply that little word - extra. And for me, I had always grown up with the belief that if someone succeeds it is because they are brilliant or talented or just better than me…and the more of these words I heard the smaller I always felt! But the truth is often very different…and for me to learn that ordinary me can achieve something extra-ordinary by giving that little bit extra, when everyone else gives up, meant the world to me and I really clung to it…" Bear Grylls

Read more about my trek in Nepal by clicking here.

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The plan at the moment looks a little something like this:

• Mont Blanc, France (4807m)
• Aconcagua, Argentina (6954m) - highest mountain outside of the Himalayas
• Ama Dablam, Nepal (6812m)
• Cho Oyu, Nepal (8201m)
• Mt. Everest, Nepal (8848m)

Everest Base Camp Trek: Cost

Calculating the cost of this trip was not easy. I had never been on a trekking holiday, never even been out hiking before I booked this trip so it was all completely new to me. Not only was there the cost I paid for the trip but there were costs associated with flights to and from London, overnight hotel in London, clothing and equipment, spending money, vaccinations, etc. Very often we forget to look at the secondary costs of such trips so before you book your trek in Nepal (or any regions for that matter) try to work out the total expected cost, and be realistic.

When all the costs have been added up I spend nearly €4,500 on total on this trip since the 9th June 2009 when I first booked it. For that cost however I have gained some irreplaceable memories, a hobby I absolutely love and I have met some amazing people, money well spent? absolutely yes.

Lets assume you are booking this trek like I did, no past experience of trekking and therefore no gear or equipment to speak of.

Trip cost €1,719.62 - incl all credit card surcharges, carbon offset donations etc.

Travel insurance €48.57 (available with the booking company but I got mine separately with a different company, just to save some money)

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My equipment for the trek (See Blog entry on Gear and Equipment for more details) cost me €1,350.00 approximately, considering I had no gear whatsoever I think I did quite well. If I was to book another trek in the future I would have most of this stuff to use for that.

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Spending money for this trip came to about €850.00 without buying anything to bring home. The spending money did admittedly include visa into Nepal, tipping of porters, guides, an unexpected helicopter trip as well as living costs for the duration of the trek, lunch, dinner, snacks, drinks etc. Flights to and from London only cost me €65.00 and hotel in London for one night was €55.00. Lastly the medical vaccinations were €190.00.

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I hope this information will leave you with a better understanding of the costs involved with such a trip, always make sure you understand there will be extras before committing yourself to something like this but by all means do not let it be a stumbling block either. This has and will be one of the most memorable experiences of my life.

My health & fitness challenge - The background story

I only wish I started this Blog a year and a half ago when I began my life changing health and fitness regime, I fear now I have long since forgotten vital details of just how hard it was. It began in October 2008, I reached that moment where I realised I was unhappy with myself, the path my life was following and decided enough was enough, time to make changes and fast. It was at that time that I quit smoking, got myself a tattoo and joined my local gym all within a few weeks. As change goes it was radical enough for me at the time. In an attempt to help quit the cigarettes I booked myself a hypnotherapy session, however me being the impatient person that I am I was not willing to wait another two weeks until the appointment to get started so I quit myself, I did get the hypnosis done also but I believe I had done a lot of the hard work before then.

Ironically I quit cigarettes and got a tattoo within a few days of one another, the irony being my tattoo is Latin, the translation meaning "Never give up". See post on tattoo for more info on that. That time was a real eye opener for me, I had been wasting my life and allowed myself to get into a cycle of not caring about myself, my health or my happiness. Time for that to change. In hindsight I also think I needed a hobby, you get stuck in a routine of not doing anything, watching tv, eating and before you know it the months and years have started to pass by. I was very much in need of changing that. I am a big believer in the philosophy that things happen for a reason, I believe the timing of all this coinciding was for a reason.

I am excellent at following instructions, I did not think of myself as a pioneer or a leader until recently. In October 2008 I was willing to be told this is what you have to do now go do it. When I joined the gym I wanted to get some preparation work done myself so that when I met my instructor I had a little fitness. This was a complete waste of time however as he managed to wear me out in ten minutes of moderate exercise. I imagine the job of a fitness instructor is very rewarding and also very frustrating at times, you cannot do the work for people and so often you hear about people joining the gym in January, go for a few weeks and then never go back. Most gyms do there business in January (a very good reason why you will never get a good deal from a gym in January). I was determined however not to be one of those people, I made a promise to myself that I would be at 13 to 13.5 stone or approx 85kg's at some time in 2009.

My starting weight in October 2008 was 16 stone or 102kg's approximately. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of myself before I began, that would have been useful but I was afraid of failure I guess. I just wanted to go about my exercise and not make a big deal about it then. I prefer to do rather than talk about it. Over the course of the next six months I worked tirelessly to achieve my goals. Meeting with Tylot (gym instructor) every 4-6 weeks or so to change my programme so as to ensure I was challenging myself the whole time. By June 2009 I was at my target weight of 85kg's but by then I was unstoppable. I had become so obsessed with health and fitness that I could not stop, ease off and just relax a little. I think when you come from a position of being overweight, to being at your target you suddenly think to yourself, what do I do now? That is when the idea for the trek came along, I wanted something to train for, something to focus all my energy on from that time, It was meant to happen.

If you remember I said earlier that I think things happen for a reason? I believe that all this time I was being led to Everest. My obsession is now on getting to the top of the world, it does not have to be today, tomorrow or even next year but over the next 10-15 years I want to be standing on top of that mountain thinking what next.

Recipes - Fish pie

James' fish pie

I tend not to keep account of exact quantities for recipes but add or reduce as I see fit (apologies for this) but I can give an estimate of the quantities for those that prefer a more structured approach.

Recipe below is a gluten, dairy and yeast free recipe that I have adapted from various other chef's as a result of Laura' dietary requirements. Proof that good food does not have to taste bad

Ingredients:

• 2 Salmon fillets
• 2 Smoked Coley fillets
• 2 Cod fillets
• 1 cup (approx) frozen King prawns (make sure these do not require defrosting)
• Potatoes (approx 3-4 good size potatoes)
• 3-4 Boiled eggs (sliced)
• 1 Egg (for brushing over potato)
• 1/2 litre Milk (I use soya milk but any milk will do)
• 1/2 cup frozen peas
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

• Preheat the milk in a saucepan until simmering
• Meanwhile cut the fish into bite size chunks
• In another saucepan add pealed and quartered potatoes to boiling water for approx 20 minutes or until cooked
• Add fish to the simmering milk and leave for approx 10 minutes until cooked through
• Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius
• When fish is nearly cooked add frozen prawns, these only need a few minutes to cook.
• Add frozen peas to the fish mixture, alternatively add any other vegetables you wish at this stage
• When the prawns and peas have been cooked through transfer the mixture to a casserole dish (a lasagne dish will do fine if you do not have a casserole dish) Keep back some of the fishy broth mixture if you think it will be too wet
• Place the sliced boiled eggs over the mixture in the dish
• Mash the potatoes, adding butter or milk to make creamy mashed potatoes. I add a whisked egg white to the potatoes to make them nice and frothy, finally spread the mashed potato evenly over the mixture and use a fork to even out
• Lightly beat an egg and brush over the mash potato to make a nice golden topping to the fish pie
• Place in the oven for 20 minutes (approx) or until golden brown on top

Serves 3-4

Tattoo

This picture is of my tattoo only a few hours after I got it done on Nov 20th 2008.

It is the Latin phrase "Numquam Cede" which means "Never give up". The timing is a little ironic as I got this tattoo the same week I quit smoking but hows ever. It was my first time getting a tattoo done and while I was a little nervous getting it done was an exhilarating experience.

I was stuck in a rut and needed a change, I didn't like how my life was going and so I changed it, in a short space of time I quit a 20 a day smoking habit, joined the gym and got this tattoo done to remind me of the bad times, to not let me forget to always try harder and to live life to its fullest. I am a person who does not like change and so to go through all of this change in such a short space of time was a shock to the system but also just what was needed.

So if you find yourself stuck in a rut in your life, shake things up and do something different.

Gear & Equipment list for Everest Base Camp Trek

What does one bring with them for a 19 day trip to Nepal? 11 days of which are trekking. I had no idea what I needed before I booked this trip. Through necessity, trial and error and plenty of internet searches I finally managed to get a list together of what I thought I needed. One problem I found with a lot of lists I saw online is that they do not tell you the recommended quantity of items to bring. I hope the following notes help you pack for your trek.

FEET

• Good quality and well broken in hiking boots are a given, ensure that they are slightly too big for you foot when buying them. Often when coming down hill your foot will slide in your boot, if they are too tight this will cause your toes to hit the front of your boots which can cause some painful injuries. It also affords you the option of wearing multiple or thicker socks if it gets colder so always buy a little bit too big.
• Trekking socks are also important, I brought way too many pairs with me, I think 11 but in the end I was glad to have a clean pair of socks to put on everyday. In hindsight 5-6 pairs would have been enough. I used thick 100% wool socks for higher up the mountain where its colder and lighter polyester ones for lower down where its warmer. Do not bring cotton socks, cotton fibres when wet from either sweat or rain will not let your feet breath, this will promote the occurrence of blisters. Also, wool or polyester even when wet will keep you warm unlike cotton. As a rule avoid cotton for any sort of hillwalking or trekking.
• Comfortable runners, sandals, crocs or whatever you prefer to wear after a long days trekking its such a treat to put on some lightweight footwear. Also useful for the days in Kathmandu. A definite for the backpack.
• Gaiters, I ended up leaving mine at home but some people had them and used them on the last few days, they provide extra warmth on the cold days up high but are not essential.

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CLOTHING

• Trekking pants, I use Craghoppers synthetic trousers and find them excellent, they are lightweight, tough and fast drying. I had two pairs with me, you would get away with one pair however if you get an opportunity to wash them along the way. The convertible ones would be useful as it gets very warm lower down, I don't use those however but its down to personal choice.
• Fleece mid layers, I am a big believer in the layering system. I brought along two micro fleeces, one size medium and one size large. The large will easily fit over the medium one if it gets really cold. I prefer the ones with the zip at the top only rather than a full zip, they seems to be more compact and generally warmer.
• Down jacket, this is useful for the cold nights sitting around after a long day trekking. Depending on the time of year however you may need a better quality one than I brought with me, I got mine for €15 in Ireland but it did the job just fine. You can pick up good quality ones in Kathmandu for a good price.
• Fleece pants, again I bought cheap ones from home but they are well worth bringing along. I used them around the stove at night time to keep me nice and warm, the soft material also is comfortable after wearing trekking trousers all day.
• Rain Jacket, I used mine only for an hour while walking in snow one evening, otherwise it didn't leave the backpack but you can never be sure, bring it
• Rain Pants, likewise used for only an hour but also bring it along.
• Thermals, I took two long sleeve thermal tops to wear over my base layer, only needed them on the days above 4500m but also useful at night time as an extra warm layer in the sleeping bag. Thermal underwear are useful for this purpose also but not for walking.
• Synthetic tee shirts, As mentioned with the socks do not bring cotton tee shirts for trekking, throw some in for around Kathmandu but for trekking polyester or some other synthetic material is best. I brought along eight synthetic tee shirts, five might have done fine however and two cotton shirts for Kathmandu.
• Base layers, like any good layering system the layer closest to the skin should wick sweat away from the body. I brought along two top half base layers and two underpants style base layers. These can be washed with a minimal amount of water and dry quickly so a good addition to the backpack.
• Underwear, in addition to the base layer underwear I took some synthetic ones also. four to five pairs will see you through the holiday.
• Tracksuit pants, for around Kathmandu and also travelling home, when all other clothes are dirty
• Shorts, Kathmandu can be very warm, it touched 30 degrees when we were there so shorts make common sense, these can be left safely in the hotel until you return.

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HEAD & HANDS

• Wool gloves, I didn't really use wool gloves during the trek, even at night time I didn't have much use for them but nevertheless you cant be sure. Treks later in the year may be colder
• Waterproof gloves, again I didn't have much need for them but we were fortunate not to get any rain during our trek. Wore them one night for an hour while throwing snowballs in Lobuche
• Scarf, this could be useful on particularly cold days but I didn't end up using mine. Could have used it as a face mask to protect from all the dust on the trail.
• Bandanas are very useful for protecting against the dust, also used as a sunguard on your head if your prefer them over hats
• Sun hat, at these altitudes a hat is vital to protect against heat stroke, even if you cannot feel the sun it is there.
• Wool hat, I brought two along, one for bed and one for trekking.
• Sunglasses, probably as important as your boots, if you have a spare set bring those too. Ensure they have 100% UV protection however, it gets very bright the higher you go.

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EQUIPMENT

• Trek first aid kit, the guides have these so it is not essential but good practice to always carry one anyway.
• Trek towels, I got two online very cheaply. These are expensive if store bought but definately worth it, these are much smaller and dry much quicker than regular towels. You will have to provide all your own shower gear once out of Kathmandu.
• Bio-degradable soap, helps protect the local areas by using bio-degradable soap rather than brand products.
• Sun Cream & aftersun cream, factor 50 sun lotion for high up, at this height the sun can burn you in minutes so do not go without. On the plus side because you are wearing so many clothes you do not need to apply it to many areas.
• Spare batteries for camera, headtorch, mp3 etc.
• Blister kit, useful to have in the backpack, blisters can ruin your enjoyment of the trek.
• Watch
• 45L daysack, you wont need one this big but I use it at home and used to carrying the weight. 25-30L would be enough.
• Chlorine & Neutralising tablets for treating your water, bottled water is available but is very expensive.
• Head torch, vital for walking around at night time in the lodges, electricity is not available higher up meaning they use solar panels for their power, lighting is very low and non existent in many places.
• Hand sanitiser, use this during the day, lunch stops, after using the toilet.
• Compression stuff sacks. helps make you gear smaller and fit better in your rucksack, also useful for separating clean and dirty clothing.
• Swiss army knife, not really needed but you never know.
• Sewing kit
• Talcum powder, at the end of the day its a good idea to put some on your feet and in your boots, helps prevent blisters and smelly boots.
• Survival bag, just in case. The old cliché applies here but I would rather have it and not need it than not have it and need it.
• Ibuprofen, Motillium, Panadol, Throat lozenges, Dioralyte rehydration salts and any prescription medication.
• mp3 player, there is lots of down time.
• Books, again there is lots of down time on this trek.
• Airporter, for protecting your rucksack while travelling through airports, keeps straps tidy and free from getting caught in conveyor systems.
• Lipsalve, make sure it has sunscreen in it, burned lips are nasty and could ruin your trip.
• Camera, make sure it is in good working order, your wont be here everyday and want to get some excellent pictures
• Disposable camera, throw it in the daysack for Everest base camp and Kala Patthar, just in case your camera fails.
• Travel clothesline, helps you dry your washed clothes, definately not essential.
• Trekking poles, I do not use these at home but if anywhere I would have used them then Nepal would have been it. On the way down there are a lot of steep downhill section which can punish the knees. If you don't use them usually consider using them here. Can be bought in Namche for 1500rupees or less.
• Sleeping bag, I took along a synthetic bag, others had down filled bags. Its personal preference. Down bags are lighter and compact smaller but a synthetic bag can last longer and can be easily washed. Also synthetic is much cheaper.
• Sleeping bag liner, I didn't have one but it may have been useful for extra warmth.
• Baby wipes, when in need of a wash but no shower is available or its too cold these really do work wonders, they keep you clean enough until you can get a shower and are a real treat at the end of a long dusty day. One of the most important items I took.
• Spare boot laces
• Pillow case, for night time just throw your down jacket in a pillow case and that can be your pillow.
• Notebook and pens, for keeping a travel log. Helps to pass the down time.
• Toilet paper, make sure you always have some as a personal stash. It is not provided in the lodges.