Tattoo

This picture is of my tattoo only a few hours after I got it done on Nov 20th 2008.

It is the Latin phrase "Numquam Cede" which means "Never give up". The timing is a little ironic as I got this tattoo the same week I quit smoking but hows ever. It was my first time getting a tattoo done and while I was a little nervous getting it done was an exhilarating experience.

I was stuck in a rut and needed a change, I didn't like how my life was going and so I changed it, in a short space of time I quit a 20 a day smoking habit, joined the gym and got this tattoo done to remind me of the bad times, to not let me forget to always try harder and to live life to its fullest. I am a person who does not like change and so to go through all of this change in such a short space of time was a shock to the system but also just what was needed.

So if you find yourself stuck in a rut in your life, shake things up and do something different.

Gear & Equipment list for Everest Base Camp Trek

What does one bring with them for a 19 day trip to Nepal? 11 days of which are trekking. I had no idea what I needed before I booked this trip. Through necessity, trial and error and plenty of internet searches I finally managed to get a list together of what I thought I needed. One problem I found with a lot of lists I saw online is that they do not tell you the recommended quantity of items to bring. I hope the following notes help you pack for your trek.

FEET

• Good quality and well broken in hiking boots are a given, ensure that they are slightly too big for you foot when buying them. Often when coming down hill your foot will slide in your boot, if they are too tight this will cause your toes to hit the front of your boots which can cause some painful injuries. It also affords you the option of wearing multiple or thicker socks if it gets colder so always buy a little bit too big.
• Trekking socks are also important, I brought way too many pairs with me, I think 11 but in the end I was glad to have a clean pair of socks to put on everyday. In hindsight 5-6 pairs would have been enough. I used thick 100% wool socks for higher up the mountain where its colder and lighter polyester ones for lower down where its warmer. Do not bring cotton socks, cotton fibres when wet from either sweat or rain will not let your feet breath, this will promote the occurrence of blisters. Also, wool or polyester even when wet will keep you warm unlike cotton. As a rule avoid cotton for any sort of hillwalking or trekking.
• Comfortable runners, sandals, crocs or whatever you prefer to wear after a long days trekking its such a treat to put on some lightweight footwear. Also useful for the days in Kathmandu. A definite for the backpack.
• Gaiters, I ended up leaving mine at home but some people had them and used them on the last few days, they provide extra warmth on the cold days up high but are not essential.

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CLOTHING

• Trekking pants, I use Craghoppers synthetic trousers and find them excellent, they are lightweight, tough and fast drying. I had two pairs with me, you would get away with one pair however if you get an opportunity to wash them along the way. The convertible ones would be useful as it gets very warm lower down, I don't use those however but its down to personal choice.
• Fleece mid layers, I am a big believer in the layering system. I brought along two micro fleeces, one size medium and one size large. The large will easily fit over the medium one if it gets really cold. I prefer the ones with the zip at the top only rather than a full zip, they seems to be more compact and generally warmer.
• Down jacket, this is useful for the cold nights sitting around after a long day trekking. Depending on the time of year however you may need a better quality one than I brought with me, I got mine for €15 in Ireland but it did the job just fine. You can pick up good quality ones in Kathmandu for a good price.
• Fleece pants, again I bought cheap ones from home but they are well worth bringing along. I used them around the stove at night time to keep me nice and warm, the soft material also is comfortable after wearing trekking trousers all day.
• Rain Jacket, I used mine only for an hour while walking in snow one evening, otherwise it didn't leave the backpack but you can never be sure, bring it
• Rain Pants, likewise used for only an hour but also bring it along.
• Thermals, I took two long sleeve thermal tops to wear over my base layer, only needed them on the days above 4500m but also useful at night time as an extra warm layer in the sleeping bag. Thermal underwear are useful for this purpose also but not for walking.
• Synthetic tee shirts, As mentioned with the socks do not bring cotton tee shirts for trekking, throw some in for around Kathmandu but for trekking polyester or some other synthetic material is best. I brought along eight synthetic tee shirts, five might have done fine however and two cotton shirts for Kathmandu.
• Base layers, like any good layering system the layer closest to the skin should wick sweat away from the body. I brought along two top half base layers and two underpants style base layers. These can be washed with a minimal amount of water and dry quickly so a good addition to the backpack.
• Underwear, in addition to the base layer underwear I took some synthetic ones also. four to five pairs will see you through the holiday.
• Tracksuit pants, for around Kathmandu and also travelling home, when all other clothes are dirty
• Shorts, Kathmandu can be very warm, it touched 30 degrees when we were there so shorts make common sense, these can be left safely in the hotel until you return.

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HEAD & HANDS

• Wool gloves, I didn't really use wool gloves during the trek, even at night time I didn't have much use for them but nevertheless you cant be sure. Treks later in the year may be colder
• Waterproof gloves, again I didn't have much need for them but we were fortunate not to get any rain during our trek. Wore them one night for an hour while throwing snowballs in Lobuche
• Scarf, this could be useful on particularly cold days but I didn't end up using mine. Could have used it as a face mask to protect from all the dust on the trail.
• Bandanas are very useful for protecting against the dust, also used as a sunguard on your head if your prefer them over hats
• Sun hat, at these altitudes a hat is vital to protect against heat stroke, even if you cannot feel the sun it is there.
• Wool hat, I brought two along, one for bed and one for trekking.
• Sunglasses, probably as important as your boots, if you have a spare set bring those too. Ensure they have 100% UV protection however, it gets very bright the higher you go.

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EQUIPMENT

• Trek first aid kit, the guides have these so it is not essential but good practice to always carry one anyway.
• Trek towels, I got two online very cheaply. These are expensive if store bought but definately worth it, these are much smaller and dry much quicker than regular towels. You will have to provide all your own shower gear once out of Kathmandu.
• Bio-degradable soap, helps protect the local areas by using bio-degradable soap rather than brand products.
• Sun Cream & aftersun cream, factor 50 sun lotion for high up, at this height the sun can burn you in minutes so do not go without. On the plus side because you are wearing so many clothes you do not need to apply it to many areas.
• Spare batteries for camera, headtorch, mp3 etc.
• Blister kit, useful to have in the backpack, blisters can ruin your enjoyment of the trek.
• Watch
• 45L daysack, you wont need one this big but I use it at home and used to carrying the weight. 25-30L would be enough.
• Chlorine & Neutralising tablets for treating your water, bottled water is available but is very expensive.
• Head torch, vital for walking around at night time in the lodges, electricity is not available higher up meaning they use solar panels for their power, lighting is very low and non existent in many places.
• Hand sanitiser, use this during the day, lunch stops, after using the toilet.
• Compression stuff sacks. helps make you gear smaller and fit better in your rucksack, also useful for separating clean and dirty clothing.
• Swiss army knife, not really needed but you never know.
• Sewing kit
• Talcum powder, at the end of the day its a good idea to put some on your feet and in your boots, helps prevent blisters and smelly boots.
• Survival bag, just in case. The old cliché applies here but I would rather have it and not need it than not have it and need it.
• Ibuprofen, Motillium, Panadol, Throat lozenges, Dioralyte rehydration salts and any prescription medication.
• mp3 player, there is lots of down time.
• Books, again there is lots of down time on this trek.
• Airporter, for protecting your rucksack while travelling through airports, keeps straps tidy and free from getting caught in conveyor systems.
• Lipsalve, make sure it has sunscreen in it, burned lips are nasty and could ruin your trip.
• Camera, make sure it is in good working order, your wont be here everyday and want to get some excellent pictures
• Disposable camera, throw it in the daysack for Everest base camp and Kala Patthar, just in case your camera fails.
• Travel clothesline, helps you dry your washed clothes, definately not essential.
• Trekking poles, I do not use these at home but if anywhere I would have used them then Nepal would have been it. On the way down there are a lot of steep downhill section which can punish the knees. If you don't use them usually consider using them here. Can be bought in Namche for 1500rupees or less.
• Sleeping bag, I took along a synthetic bag, others had down filled bags. Its personal preference. Down bags are lighter and compact smaller but a synthetic bag can last longer and can be easily washed. Also synthetic is much cheaper.
• Sleeping bag liner, I didn't have one but it may have been useful for extra warmth.
• Baby wipes, when in need of a wash but no shower is available or its too cold these really do work wonders, they keep you clean enough until you can get a shower and are a real treat at the end of a long dusty day. One of the most important items I took.
• Spare boot laces
• Pillow case, for night time just throw your down jacket in a pillow case and that can be your pillow.
• Notebook and pens, for keeping a travel log. Helps to pass the down time.
• Toilet paper, make sure you always have some as a personal stash. It is not provided in the lodges.

How to use your watch as a compass?

Part 5 - How to use your watch as a compass

This is probably one of those things that you will never have to use but still it could be a lifesaver and is interesting to know. People are always impressed with this one.

I shouldn't have to say (but I will anyway) but you need an analog watch as opposed to a digital watch for this one as the hour hand is required. This is for direction only, I doubt that anyone would be able to use their wristwatch for navigation but if you think you can go for it.

Step 1 - While holding your watch horizontally in front on you locate the sun and point the hour hand directly at the sun.

Step 2 - Using a match, blade of grass etc. Place it halfway between the hour hand and the number 12 (make sure your hour hand is still pointing at the sun)

Step 3 - Once halfway between the sun and 12, you have your south - north line. i.e. the direction you are looking in should be south and north behind you - in the southern hemisphere this is reversed.

Step 4 - If you are using daylight saving time on your watch, use the number 1 as a reference point instead of 12

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Notes:

If you do not have an analog watch, simply draw a watch face and use that instead

The closer to the equator you are the less precise this method becomes

How to navigate to a small feature: Techniques

Part 4 - How to navigate to a small feature: Techniques

Knowing how to use the compass and reading the map are key skills when out in the mountains. Perhaps you are feeling a little more adventurous now and you want to navigate to a particular feature on the map. Some features can be very difficult to find even in clear weather so there are some techniques you can use to help you find what you are looking for. Say you are looking for a point in a path that you need to follow to get back home. Will you know for sure it is the right path when you get to it? Often times you can miss features like this and end up searching for them for a long time when a few minutes extra prep at the start, some useful navigation techniques can ensure you find the target with certainty.

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TIMING

Timing I speak about more in the "Planning your walks" page on my website (follow the link) but the basic principles involve your speed over a measured distance. I walk at a relatively quick 5km per hour on average. Others walk at 2km per hour so it really depends on the person. At 5km per hour this translates into 12 minutes per kilometre along flat ground, we should naturally add more time if climbing steep ground, rule of thumb is for every contour (10m line) you cross heading uphill on the map add a minute. Naismiths formula lets you determine how long a walk should take you but will involve a little time in advance to measure the distance to be walked, counting contours etc but the effort is definately worth it. I once went on a solo walk where I had done all of this in advance, I was back at the car within 5 minutes of when I expected to be back. Over 4 hours walking that is quite impressive to be able to be that accurate regarding timing.

Timing is also useful in confirming your position on a map. Say you are not 100% sure how far along a path you are, the weather is foggy and you cant see any features to confirm your position. Knowing the time you got onto the path, how long you have been walking etc will tell you pretty accurately where you are at that time (assuming you are on the right path of course)

Its a force of habit now for me that no matter which walk I am on, no matter who is leading I will always keep and eye on the time. You should too!

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PACING

Pacing like timing is another technique that allows you to be a lot more accurate with your walks than simply pointing the compass in a direction and blindly following it. When on a route with many turns for instance pacing can be of real benefit. It requires concentration however above that of a standard hill walk and in my experience can be exhausting but it is a great habit to get oneself into. Most people take 65 double paces in a 100m distance. That means launching off with the right leg and every time that leg touches the ground we count another pace. (1 - left foot - 2 left foot 3 etc.) Make sure you check yours however on a known 100m long area somewhere near you, running track perhaps and count your paces. I take 62 paces for instance and I know someone who takes 70. It is very individual.

It is also important to add extra paces for steep and rough terrain but again this can only be gained from practice. I always count out 100m blocks so as not to get too confused by the amount of paces I have taken, be sure however to keep track of how many 100m blocks you have done. Used in tandem with timing, pacing can be an invaluable technique to use in the field. It allows you to confirm the whole time that you are where you think you are. Particularly in bad weather you should constantly be looking out for confirmation markers. Paths diverging, rivers, steep terrain, forestry (to a lesser degree as forests can often be cut down while the maps is not updated), these can all be used to confirm exactly where you are at all times.

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AIMING OFF

This is another technique that can be used when looking for small targets, paths, rivers etc. It involves taking a bearing to one side of the feature deliberately aiming off. Then when you get to that feature you can turn either left of right depending on which side of the feature you aimed off at. Its a basic method but once you reach the point at aiming off you know for certainty that the feature is to one side instead of arriving there and wondering if you missed it, which side did I miss it to? etc.

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HANDRAILS

You can sometimes link together line features such as rivers, streams, paths, walls etc. to form a path that can be easily followed. It can be longer than just following a straight line to a target but more reliable

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ATTACK POINTS

This technique involves navigating to an obvious feature before navigating to the small target feature. You can then do small navigation legs to find your small feature instead of trying to be very accurate from the outset.

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OVERSHOOT FEATURES

It is as basic as it sounds. Having something in your mind that you know once you see this I have gone too far is an excellent safety technique. It can be as basic as "once I start losing ground again I know I have missed the summit".

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REMEMBER

Navigation is about knowing at all times where you are (Self location is paramount) and where you are going. In order to be able to help you to navigate safely remember the 4 D's

Direction - Compass bearing

Distance - How far away is it? confirmed en route with timing, pacing etc

Description - What should I see along the way and when I get there? If I aim off what will I see? What are the overshoot features?

Duration - How long will it take to get there? Again timing and pacing are used here

There is no rule book saying you have to use all the techniques above on your day walking, but having a fundamental understanding of them, using them regularly enough to be familiar with them can help on the nasty days when visibility is very low and navigation difficult. Practice makes perfect so try to practice these on a good clear day when you can confirm you have the techniques mastered.

How to read a map?

Part 3 - How to read a map

Contours - Understanding contours and shapes is a key navigational aid. Above you will see some common contours from any mountain region map. Being able to see that ground on profile in your head vital for good navigation.

The first two images look exactly the same right? So how do I tell based on these images which is which? There are a couple of methods. The first one is to read the contours and what they are doing. On the first image you will see that the contours on the top of the map (650m) are higher than those at the bottom (550m). This indicates a slope downhill or a valley. From image two you will notice the exact opposite is happening. That however is only half that story.

The other method is to use the colours on the map (purposefully left out above for demonstration purposes) On a standard OS map there are colours to indicate higher ground and lower ground. On Irish OS maps the darker the colour the higher the ground. Light Green is the lowest ground while Brown is the highest. Cream and different shades of Brown are used to show varying levels in between those colours.

From Image one above visualise that the valley is a light brown colour and either side of it is a darker shade of Brown. This will very quickly tell you what the ground is doing either side of the valley or spur. (High to Low to High will indicate a valley, Low to High to Low will indicate a spur or a ridge - see image below showing a valley, the high ground shown in the darker shade of brown and the valley to the left in the light shade of brown / cream)

How to give a grid reference?

Part 2 - How to give a grid reference

Step 1 - Read letters identifying the 100 000 metre square in which your position lies (see image above), in this case the letter is P. Note that sometimes a map will intersect numerous different letters, for example OS Map No. 56 intersects 4 letters so care is needed to ensure you have the correct one

Step 2 - I am sure you remember from Geography class the terms Eastings and Northings. First quote Eastings, the vertical grid line to left of point, In this case the number is 01

Step 3 - Next comes the estimate work, you need to imagine that the square that our destination is located within is split into smaller squares. So imagine 10 lines vertically across the square and 10 lines horizontally across the square - essentially what you are doing is narrowing your grid from 100 000 metre square to 100 metre square

Step 4 - From the map it is safe to estimate that there is 1 vertical line on the left (Easting) of our target

Step 5 - Next step involves repeating Step 3 & 4 but this time for our horizontal (Northing) reference, Locate first horizontal grid line below the point

Step 6 - Our Northing Coordinate therefore is 32

Step 7 - Next step is to count the number of horizontal (Northing) lines below the target as we did earlier with our Easting in Steps 3 & 4. In this case I estimate there to be 7 horizontal lines below our target

Step 8 - All that remains is to check that all the information is correct and that our Grid Reference of P 011 327 is in fact the position we need to go to

How to use a compass?

Part 1 - How to use a compass

Step 1 - Always ensure that the map is facing the correct way. On Irish OS maps north is always to the top of the map as you are reading it

Step 2 - Say for example I want to navigate from the summit of Kanturk or Brown Mountain to the summit of Scarr as per the exert above. Place the baseplate of the compass on the map between the two points ensuring the straight edge of the compass intersects both points (You can also use the black lines from the baseplate (see compass image above) as your straight edge - hold the compass with the straight edge on the map for the next stage

Step 3 - NB that the Direction of travel arrow (as per the image above) points in the direction you wish to travel

Step 4 - Next step involves twisting the Compass dial so that the Orienting arrow / Orienting Lines match the Easting (blue) lines on the OS map - this has to be precise

Step 5 - Check that the straight edge still intersects the two points on the map (sometimes while twisting the compass dial you can inadvertently move the compass)

Step 6 - Once you are certain that you have done all the above steps correctly you can now remove the compass from the map

Step 7 - Holding the Compass horizontally in front of you, position the compass approx at the base of your sternum and turn yourself around until you get red on red. You will notice from the compass image that there is the RED orienteering arrow and the RED Magnetic Needle. When they are positioned together the direction of travel arrow will point you in the direction you need to travel

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DECLINATION - I will not go into the finer details of the declination principle, however if you would like to know more about it please follow this link

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_declination

Declination basically refers to the difference between True North (also known as Geographic North), Grid North and Magnetic North .

True North: Geographical North pole.

Grid North: This is shown on the North - South grid lines on the map and may be up to 2 degrees different to true north.

Magnetic North: The earth's magnetic pole doesn't correspond to the Geographic North Pole and because the earth's core is molten, the magnetic field is always shifting slightly (variable point somewhere north of Hudson bay in Canada) The red end of your compass needle is magnetized and wherever you are, the earth's magnetic field causes the needle to rotate until it lies in the same direction as the earth's magnetic field.

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With all this in mind it is necessary to adjust your compass to account for Declination. All OS maps have an information section on the right hand side called The National Grid. Located here is the Declination correction required for that area. For example OS Map Discovery Series 56, 4th Edition has a declination correction of 6 degrees 26 minutes West of Grid North (you do not have to account for minutes on the compass) - so adjust your compass 6 degrees to the West dec marked on your compass (turn compass wheel anti clockwise)

NB. Depending on where you are in the world the direction of declination will vary. It is important to consult your local map always.